Dining in Kyoto

Kyoto cuisine, known as Kyo-ryori, is linked to Kyoto's long history and to seasonal foods produced in the surrounding region. Among the various types of Kyo-ryori available, most famous are probably the vegetarian dishes, which were created to serve the needs of Zen Buddhist priests and pilgrims making the rounds of Kyoto's many temples. Called shojin ryori, these vegetarian set meals may include tofu simmered in a pot at your table (yudofu), filmy sheets of soy milk curd (yuba), and an array of local vegetables. Kyoto is also renowned for its own style of kaiseki (Kyo-kaiseki), originally conceived as a meal to be taken before the tea ceremony but eventually becoming an elaborate feast enjoyed by the capital's nobility with its blend of ceremonial court cuisine, Zen vegetarian food, and simple tea-ceremony dishes. Today, Kyoto abounds in restaurants serving both vegetarian tofu dishes and kaiseki meals fit for an emperor (Kyoto's better ryokan also serve kaiseki as the evening meal). Simpler restaurants specialize in Obanzai, home-style Kyoto cooking using traditional seasonal ingredients. Otherwise, any restaurant advertising that it serves Kyo-ryori generally offers a variety of Kyoto specialties.

Remember: Last orders are taken 30 to 60 minutes before the restaurant's actual closing time, even earlier for some kaiseki restaurants (which often require a reservation). Bus information to each restaurant is from Kyoto Station.

Around Kyoto Station

A good place for inexpensive dining is Kyoto Station, which houses approximately 70 restaurants in underground arcades, at major exits, in a 10th-floor food court, at Isetan department store, and at Hotel Granvia.

Central Kyoto

The heart of Kyoto's shopping, dining, and nightlife district is Nakagyo-ku, especially on Kawaramachi and Shijo Dori and along the many side streets. In summer, restaurants on the west bank of the Kamo River erect large wooden outdoor platforms that extend over the water and offer open-air dining. For a cup of coffee, head to Starbucks, located on the corner of Shijo Dori and Yanaginobanba (tel. 075/231-5008).

Eastern Kyoto

There are a lot of informal and inexpensive places near Kiyomizu Temple. If the weather is nice, you may wish to stop for noodles and a beer on the Kiyomizu Temple grounds, where you'll find several open-air tatami pavilions.

Northern Kyoto

There's a branch of the Gontaro noodle shop in this area, at Hinomiyashiki-cho 26 (tel. 075/463-1039), with the same English-language menu as its main shop. It's located about halfway down the street that runs between Ryoanji and Ginkakuji, on the west side; look for the red paper lantern. It's open Thursday to Tuesday from 11am to 10pm.