Heian Period

In 894, political turmoil and the diminishing power of emperors caused Japan to sever its brotherly ties with China that gave way to Japan’s search for its own artistic identity.

And in this classical age, Heian was a period when the Japanese’s love of color surfaced and blossomed. The difference between its textiles to those of China’s can be seen in the use of dyes. Though colors indicate ranks in Chinese society, Japan used its own interpretation of colors and took it, together with the accompanying restraints, to a higher level. Color combination of dyes was introduced, with stricter implications per set. Later on, Kasane No Irome (color combinations) became standardized with each combination having a distinct name and being worn on a specific season. Kurenai, a red dye produced from safflower plants, became an exclusive color, only for women of high rank or those favored by the Empress.

The Tale of Genji is a novel which accurately describes the wardrobes of the Heian era, as well as the textiles found in the temples that time.