Kamakura Period

After an era of colorful and fancy clothing during the Heian period, Kamakura stood by simplicity and austerity, reflecting its rebellion towards the preceding era. It was also said that during this period, a repair of a 7th century-embroidered Mandala was done, as well as the production of a replica of the Tenjukoku Shucho Mandara named "Tenjukoku Mandara".

Agriculture during the Muromachi period was more developed as compared to that of Kamakura’s, leading to further improvement of the textile industry. An important discovery during the era is that of a base of the now-famous silk textile named Nishijin.

Outside contributions helped the industry of this era as well. New textiles from China’s Ming Dynasty graced the country, and in 1584, a Spanish galleon arrived in Hirado, leading to an influx of wool fabrics, velvets, and cottons. Thus, new weaving techniques were developed, then spread throughout the country.

The Kozuke no Kuni (Yamada-gun) silk was also well-known during these two periods in Japanese history.